Day 4: Deer Park to Hot Springs

10/12/2010

We woke at dawn to enjoy a leisurely breakfast of instant oatmeal (and in my case, ibuprofen). We said goodbye to our shelter mates and wished them Happy Trails. We took our time packing camp before beginning our 3.2 mile trek into Hot Springs. It was mostly downhill (of course). The ibuprofen cut the edge of my knee pain though, so I was able to keep a good pace with Brent. We made good time and arrived in Hot Springs in time for lunch. Yay! The AT goes right through downtown Hot Springs. We crossed a road and then followed the AT markers in the sidewalk into town and to the public lot where our Jeep was parked. I was so relieved to take that pack off for the last time! Brent suggested that we eat before going to the campground. I agreed because I was ravenous. I was also hesitant because I knew I was dirty and smelled unpleasant. Brent did his best to convince me to just change clothes in the Jeep and I would be fine. My hunger finally caused me to acquiesce, so I threw a blanket over me so I could change clothes without being seen. I was not thrilled about that. After changing into normal clothes and braiding my hair, Brent insisted that I didn't look like someone who had just come off of the AT. Well...what can I say? Flattery goes a long way.

We went back to the Smoky Mountain Cafe and ordered vegetable plates. They came with your choice of four vegetables and a slice of cornbread. I ordered a fifth vegetable. I was hungry. Don't judge. I ate everything on my plate except the cornbread, which Brent thought was a mortal sin, so I took a bite of it to say I had at least tried everything on my plate.

I hiked 21 miles(23 if you count the two miles from "the mistake") from Max Patch to Hot Springs, NC, slept in a primitive shelter or tent, gathered firewood from the forest, learned to relieve myself in the woods, learned how to filter water, and pushed myself harder physically, mentally, and emotionally than I ever have before. The experience was worth every moment of pain and discomfort, every awe-inspiring moment when I saw gorgeous views of the back-country in its autumn glory, every heart-stopping moment when I would stumble on a root or rock, steady myself and glance down at the steep drop off beside me, and every heart melting moment when Brent would smile at me, so happy because I was sharing one of his greatest joys in life. I am humbled by my journey and inspired. I feel accomplished and proud...and a little beaten down. I will never forget this experience, my first adventure on the Appalachian Trail. I am already planning next year's hike (double mileage). I am hooked!

I am Baby Doe, wife and hiking partner to Indiana Buck, and we are BOTH AT section hikers!

Day 3: Walnut Mountain to Deer Park Shelter

10/11/2010

We woke (or crawled out of our sleeping bags) as soon as it was light enough to see, around 7:30 a.m. Everyone else was awake and preparing to do a 13 mile trek into Hot Springs. Brent and I had planned to only do a 7 mile trek to a tent spot near Garenflo Gap, but we (Brent) decided to go 10 miles to Deer Park Shelter. We had breakfast (another Mountain House egg and bacon dish), said goodbye (Happy Trails) to our shelter mates, and packed our gear.

The first part of the 10 mile hike wasn't too bad. We hiked up Bluff Mountain slowly, conserving our energy and stopping to enjoy the autumn colors. Halfway up, we stopped at an old campsite for "bathroom" breaks and snacks. Let me tell you...there are NO bathrooms on the AT except at the shelters. If you want to relieve yourself on the trail, you have to find the feral side of yourself...or at least the women do. It's not easy. I highly recommend researching GoGirl.

We reached the top of Bluff Mountain and stopped briefly to enjoy the views and snap a few pictures. We didn't stay long because there were a lot of large black flies buzzing around everywhere. Once on top, the only way to go was down...down...and down. Four miles of foot pounding, knee aching descent. The trail followed the mountain around as it descending, many times with a drop off to one side. Since I am not fond of heights, I made a point of not looking down, but instead, watching the path in front of me. It wasn't hard to do this because the acorns and roots made the trail very tricky to maneuver. It was like hiking on marbles at times.

The views and autumn foliage as we descended Bluff Mountain were fantastic! We found an overlook off of the trail that offered a fabulous view of the countryside. We took a break here and Brent consulted the oracle, I mean map, to see how far we had to go before we reached Garenflo Gap, which was located at the bottom of Bluff Mountain (and signaled the end of our downward torture).

We found a pretty green glen as we hiked down Bluff Mountain. We saw a sign for a fresh water spring and Brent decided that we should fill our bladders in case the other water sources weren't reliable. (We had this problem at Walnut Mountain Shelter. Several of the water sources were barely flowing or not flowing at all). He got his water filter out of his pack and proceeded to narrate his actions so that I would know how to filter water in the future. He filters very slowly. I don't know if I would have the patience to filter as slowly as he does. While I waited on him, I snacked on my trail mix. Did I mention that I make some amazingly yummy trail mix? It's actually granola, not trail mix, but we love it because of the nutrients it provides.

We had passed Garenflo Gap (our lowest point of the day) and my knees were killing me! We had hiked around six miles when we reached a point where we could look back at Bluff Mountain. We had hiked up the mountain, down the mountain, and around the next mountain to reach the point where this photograph was taken. I was awed, knowing that I was on top of this mountain just a few hours earlier. The next two miles of our hike were varied treks of ascent and descent. I loved hiking up the hills because my knees didn't hurt nearly as bad then. The last two miles of our hike was mostly downhill, and I hobbled through it at a super slow pace like an old woman with worn out joints. Through the pain and grueling pace (set by Brent...I seriously don't think he knows how to hike slow), I made it to the sign for Deer Park Shelter. We needed water, but Brent knew I was in pain and decided to escort me to the shelter. Of course, the shelter had to be a quarter of a mile off the trail! After all, when I thought my torture (I exaggerate because I loved every minute of it) was over, I still had to hike a distance to find relief at the shelter! I think I heard knee parts clanking and dropping like old rusty car parts on a pitted road while I hiked the last mile. I was never so glad to see a shelter in my life!

There were people there with tents set up behind the shelter. This was another shelter that was built in the 1930s and this one looked dirty. Brent and I decided to set up our tent as well, near a fire pit. After arranging our camp, we met our shelter mates, a group of 3 thru-hikers on their way to Tennessee to see the Smoky Mountains, two women and a man. They looked to be in their early 20s. They were from Glenwood Springs, Colorado, which was awesome because I lived in Rifle (20 miles away) for a while during my childhood! The guy's name was Furnace and his wife was known as Little Big Wind. (She can burp very loud). They had a friend hiking with them, but I can't remember her name. Brent gave her a nickname (not to her face of course) of Big South Wind. I'll give you two guesses as to how she came by that name. They were extremely nice and funny, if a bit uncouth. They apologized, explaining that four months living on the trail had chased away all of their manners. Needless to say, they were very entertaining. After sharing a fire and dinner (more Mountain House meals) with them, we all sought sleep in our tents.

Day 2: Max Patch to Walnut Mountain Shelter

10/10/2010

Brent and I woke up around six a.m., but it was still too dark to see to pack up the camp. We decided to stay in our tent until it was light enough outside to see. Around seven a.m., we finally ventured out of our tent. Instead of following Brent's example and finding a bush to hide behind so that I could relieve myself, I choose to hike up the steep 200 yard incline to use the restroom at the main rental office. It was a tough hike up and down, but it was well worth it! When I returned to the camp site, I discovered Brent had prepared a Mountain House egg and bacon breakfast. Despite the negative reviews on this stuff, I found it was quite adequate for a meal in which you just add hot water in order to prepare it! It tasted similar to the eggs you get at Denny's and provided 29 grams of protein, which I greatly needed to keep my blood sugar from dropping too low. After breakfast, we quickly packed camp and hiked up the steep incline to our vehicle.

We drove into Hot Springs and parked our Jeep in the public parking lot near Bluff Mountain Outfitters. We had an appointment to meet our shuttle driver in front of the Outfitter store at nine a.m. We were a few minutes early, so we decided to look over our packs one last time to make sure we had everything packed and adjusted properly. As we were checking our packs, an older man walked up and introduced himself as Wild Bill, our shuttle driver. He then went to get his vehicle and come into the parking lot to pick us up. He pulled up in an old brown Jeep Cherokee that looked like it had been used, abused, and sent around the block a time or two...or in this case, perhaps down a mountain or two? We put our packs in the back of the Cherokee amongst all the stuff that Wild Bill already had stuffed in the small cargo area. I took the backseat of the Cherokee while Brent rode shotgun with Wild Bill. Oh, he was quite a character! I regret the fact that I didn't get a picture of him. Wild Bill used to work for the Foresty Service, fighting forest fires and performing rescues. He lived and worked all over the country during the 70s, 80s, and 90s. He told us many stories about his adventures while he was driving. It took forty-five minutes of Wild Bill's wild driving to get from Hot Springs to the parking lot at Max Patch. I have to admit that his driving scared me a few times. The man never slowed when he hit the gravel road. Several times I wondered if I signed up to go on a roller coaster ride! Wild Bill dropped us off in the parking lot and we paid him $45 for the shuttle ride in his Cherokee. He gave us his business card in case we needed a transport to another location.

In the parking lot, we shouldered our packs and began hiking a four-wheel drive road around the mountain to reach the Bald at the top where we would meet up with the Appalachian Trail. When we came out of the trees, we were confronted with the most beautiful grassy bald we had ever seen. The top of the mountain is regularly mowed, so we could see views of all the surrounding mountains and pasture land in all four directions. It was an amazing 360 degree vista. The mountains blazed with beautiful, vivid colors of yellow, gold, orange, and red. A few hay bales sat serenely amongst the soft green grass of the bald.

Standing on the AT near the summit of Max Patch.

Brent, standing next to the AT sign on Max Patch.

A view of autumn colors from Max Patch.

The well-worn footpath of the AT. Brent stands on the summit.

After enjoying the breathtaking views, we began to follow the white blaze north, Brent leading the way as he is usually inclined to do. Except, we took a wrong turn...made a left when we should have veered right. We walked down a well-used path but didn't see any white blazes on the trees. We realized we went the wrong way. We lost an hour or so because we thought we could figure out how to get back to the AT without backtracking. We were wrong. We finally turned around and followed the path back out of the forest until we found the white blaze again. What a precious sight it was! Brent was frustrated and a little embarrassed, claiming that he had never gotten lost on the AT before. Hopefully he never will again. We added about two miles to our journey with that mistake. When we found the AT again, we stopped to sit on a log and have a quick lunch of diced chicken breast and my specialty trail mix. We then hiked along the trail at a steady pace, mostly downhill, until we reached the Roaring Fork shelter. I had developed a hot spot on my right pinkie toe, so we detoured into the shelter so Brent could "play" medic and put moleskin on my toe.

We met a very talkative thru-hiker at the shelter who asked if we would take his picture and mail it to him. I agreed and he wrote his address on a card for me. After this, Brent doctored my toe and we set out on the trail again, northbound. We hiked several more miles, a mixture of ups and downs. While on a break to eat some trail mix, we were passed by a group of three older ladies. They were booking it! They put us to shame. We continued onward. The last mile and a half was a doozy of a climb to reach the top of Walnut Mountain. I thought we would never make it! We were both huffing and puffing our way up, taking frequent breaks. Halfway up the climb, we came across one of the previous ladies filtering water from a stream to refill her water supply. Brent filtered water to fill our extra bladders at the bottom of the mountain, so we were carrying 5 pounds extra weight each during our climb. We finally dragged ourselves up the mountain and reached a small overgrown bald at the top. It would look similar to Max Patch if the weeds were cut, but they were almost head height, so we couldn't see much.

After navigating through the weedy bald, we entered the forest again and saw Walnut Mountain Shelter. It was a very small shelter, able to sleep 5 people, that was built in the 1930s. Just past it were the bear cables where hikers hang their food bags so that bears and other animals won't get the food (or hopefully you). Across from the shelter, a short distance away, was a privy; basically a primitive outhouse. At the shelter, we met the group of three ladies again. They were in their 50s/60s and were in the process of doing a 150 mile section hike (their second that year!). The ladies were called Chicken, Blue Jay, and Sticks. Chicken, also known as Sondra Hartt, gave me my trail name, Baby Doe, because Brent goes by Buck. Baby Doe is a cute trail name and Blue Jay said I was little and cute like a baby doe, so the name stuck. I like it. Brent decided to add Indiana in front of Buck because there is already a 'Buck' out there somewhere on the AT. So Brent's full trail name is Indiana Buck or just Buck for short. There were two other AT first-timers at the shelter, two cousins from Florida and North Carolina. The ladies named them as well. Florida guy was named Four Seasons and NC guy was designated First Timer. They were obviously new to camping/backpacking because they brought so much food and other stuff! Brent acknowledged that I didn't even seem like a first timer. He complimented me because I always seemed to know what to do when we made camp, whether it was prep my sleeping area or gathering firewood. I guess all those camping adventures with my parents paid off!

Four Season, First Timer, Sticks, Chicken, and Blue Jay

Day 1: Hot Springs, NC

10/9/2010

My mother and grandmother drove to Madison to pick up Harlee and Ronan. They were staying with my parents for the week while Brent and I were hiking. After seeing the kids off, Brent and I traveled to Hot Springs, North Carolina. It took a little over five hours of driving. The scenery was gorgeous. We needed to refuel when we arrived, so we sought out the only gas station in Hot Springs. The two pumps were so old that

they didn't even have a card reader! They reminded me of an old gas station back in my home town of Hickory, MS.

After getting gas, we stopped by the Smoky Mountain Cafe for a late lunch. It didn't look like much from the outside. It shared a single story utilitarian metal building with the Dollar Store. However, the lunch was divine! Brent and I both had the country fried steak with vegetables. I (of course) chose the fried green tomatoes, which were excellent. This restaurant definitely earned its good reviews on Trip Advisor.

After lunch, we visited the Bluff Mountain Outfitter store to verify our shuttle arrangements. Brent loved browsing through the store, looking at the latest and greatest backpacking equipment. I loved the store's large selection of energy bars, dehydrated foods, and other goodies. The employees were very friendly and "trail-eccentric." You just have to meet them to know what I mean. :)

We left the store and headed to Creek Ridge Campground. It was on a one lane gravel road part of the way up a mountain on the outskirts of town. After waiting for someone to show up at the main "office," we hiked down a steep trail about 200 yards to the stream below. The primitive campsites were situated alongside the stream. There were six peekas (covered decks) to choose from. We chose one away from the other campers that had a nice large fire pit and picnic table. The view of the stream in front of the campsite was fantastic!

Brent was enjoying the serene sounds of the stream.

We enjoyed a Mountain House spaghetti dinner that evening with some dried fruit for dessert. We considered dinner a "practice run" to prepare us (or mostly me) for trail meals. I was highly surprised that the dehydrated meals tasted so good. They are at least as good as Hamburger Helper, if not better. The experience of this campground was great with the exception of the noise from the traffic of a nearby road. During the day, there was lots of traffic. However, at night, the traffic died down and we could enjoy the peacefulness of the area.